Happy Farm

By Lisa McLaughlin

Concerned about treatment of farm animals? Then look for the new "certified humane" label on menus and in supermarkets. The label promises that the animals ate antibiotic- and hormone- free diets and were compassionately raised. The extra care costs more, but chefs like Todd Gray at Equinox in Washington and Patricia Yeo at New York City's Sapa swear by the quality and taste.

NOTHING FISHY ABOUT CERTIFIED LOW-MERCURY TUNA FISH Two new brands of canned tuna promise a safer salad. Carvalho Fisheries uses only young albacore, which has consistently lower mercury content than older, larger fish, while King of the Sea uses the smaller yellowfin tuna.

HOT FOR AN OLD-FASHIONED PEPPER Over the centuries, long peppers fell from fashion in favor of the round peppercorn. But food fashions can change. Whole Foods and specialty markets are reintroducing the mini-pinecone-shape spice, which combines heat with sweet overtones.

MUST-HAVE COOKBOOKS

GRAND LIVRE DE CUISINE Alain Ducasse's culinary encyclopedia is now available in English

RECIPES FROM A VERY SMALL ISLAND Celebrates the food of Maine's Isle au Haut

SUSANNA FOO FRESH INSPIRATION Fuses Asian ingredients with Western techniques