Utah's Sparkle

By Peta Owens-Liston/Park City

Before the 2002 Olympics, the perception of Salt Lake City, Utah, was no postcard: picture a geographically isolated and socially conservative burg with a dead lake to the west and a deader night life. Seventeen days, several billion television viewers and more than 300,000 visitors later, Salt Lake was something to write home about: a world-class destination that attracted a record number of skiers who found powder, speed and fun. "Everyone here was exceptionally happy during the Olympics. I think they were relieved not to have their low expectations realized," says Renee Crabtree, owner of Renee's Bar and Cafe in Park City, one of 10 ski towns within an hour of Salt Lake City. The Games may be gone, but new and upgraded resorts and sports facilities remain for non-Olympians to enjoy.

At the Utah Olympic Park (435-658-4200), where all the sliding sports and Nordic jumping took place, you can hop into a bobsled with a driver and hit the curves at 80 m.p.h. and 4 Gs (the equivalent of a 40-story drop in less than a minute). "I could feel my contact lenses slipping down my eyes," says track-maintenance-crew member Alan Powell of his first bobsled ride. Or join up for a program at the park's ski jumps, among the highest-altitude ramps in the world. In the summer, ice is traded for wheels on bobsleds, and aerial skiers land in a 750,000-gal. "splash" pool.

At Soldier Hollow in midway (435-654-2002), visitors are steadying their .22-cal. rifles and taking aim at targets after cross-country skiing the Olympic biathlon course. Try not to be distracted by Soldier Hollow's backdrop--11,750-ft. Mount Timpanogos. down in the salt lake valley, you'll find the fastest ice on earth at the Olympic Oval (801-963-7109), where 10 records were set, eight of which still stand. You can try setting your own with the help of a coach and rental skates on the 400-m oval.

Park City is an old mining town 27 miles east of Salt Lake City that resurrected its soul through skiing. Two of its three resorts were host to Olympic events. Stein Eriksen Lodge (800-453-1302), located on Deer Valley's slopes, and Hotel Park City (435-940-5000) offer some of the town's most luxurious digs. After skiing, guests at Stein's place (the former Norwegian Olympian still mingles) can visit the day spa or soak in private hot tubs. The woodwork of the year-old Hotel Park City is reminiscent of that found in the old national lodges of the 1800s, but there's nothing rustic about the accommodations. Stone fireplaces and butler service are part of the mix. With a daily cap of 6,000 skiers, Deer Valley's slopes are uncrowded and meticulously groomed; the on-slope cuisine is outstanding. The Olympic legacy is more visible at the neighboring park city mountain resort, where the eagle superpipe (wider and taller than a half-pipe) offers some whiplash spectating as snowboarders try to prove that gravity is for wimps. Park City is as much a pedestrian town as it is a ski town, with restaurants, bars and shops an easy walk for tired ski legs.

The Olympics made Snowbasin a star, expanding a small mom-and-pop resort into 2,950 acres of sublime terrain and views. As host to the downhill and super-G events, the resort built three day lodges and replaced most of its lifts. These aren't your typical boot-scuffing lodges. Chandeliers and leather-backed chairs may make you feel at home. At 8,700 ft., the John Paul Lodge offers A bird's-eye view of the downhill--where racers reach 80 m.p.h. If you want to imitate Bode Miller's hairy medal-winning run, take the Olympic tram to the top, where the course starts and this Alpine thrill ride begins.