Pomegranate Power

By Lisa McLaughlin

Celebrated in mythology, literature and art, the pomegranate has a noble history. Along with the citrus and the peach, it's one of the three blessed fruits in Buddhism. Some have suggested that it was a pomegranate, not an apple, that led to the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden. And in Greek mythology, Persephone was sentenced to six months a year in the underworld for eating just six pomegranate seeds.

But in modern times the fruit, with its sticky, jewel-like seeds, has not attained much popularity in the U.S.--until now. In season through December, pomegranates are peaking in more ways than one. This year's crop is expected to be the largest ever, according to the San Francisco--based Pomegranate Council, and culinary interest in the fruit is also on the rise.

Pomegranate martinis made with pomegranate juice, vodka and a splash of grapefruit are becoming the hipster drink of choice, and the pomegranate margarita is the signature cocktail at Rosa Mexicano in New York City. Chefs are finding innovative uses for the fruit in dishes sweet and savory. At Bolo, also in New York City, Bobby Flay features a roasted-butternut-squash soup with toasted almonds and pomegranate molasses, while at Wheatleigh in Lenox, Mass., chef Bryce Whittlesey has created a Manjari velvet-chocolate cake that is served with fresh pomegranate seeds and a reduction of pomegranate with cinnamon.

Whittlesey uses a variety called Wonderful, which is also in the increasingly popular Pom Wonderful juices. Some devotees are drawn to the juices for their intense sweet-tart taste; others are intrigued by the fruit's supposed health benefits, touted in the drinks' high-decibel ad campaign. "Cheat death," screams one Pom Wonderful ad, while another provocatively states, "It's been around for 5,000 years. Drink it and you might be too."

That's obviously overstating things, but pure pomegranate juice is one of the most healthful beverages around. It's a great source of potassium, vitamin C and polyphenols, which promote heart health. Pomegranates also contain high levels of flavonoids, potent antioxidants, which may offer protection against heart disease and cancer. A glass of pomegranate juice has more antioxidants than do red wine, green tea, cranberry juice and orange juice. According to a study reported in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, people who drank just 2 oz. a day for a week showed an average increase of 9% in antioxidant activity. And in a study presented at an American Association for Cancer Research conference last month, researchers found that pomegranate extract may help fight skin cancer. But this tasty health boost comes at a price: each 15.2oz. bottle of Pom Wonderful contains the juice of four fruits and retails for almost $4.