Monday, Oct. 20, 2003

What You Need to Know About ... Meat, Fish & Eggs

By David Bjerklie

BRAIN FOOD

Meat has been a precious food commodity and a great source of complete protein, vitamins and other nutrients since prehistoric times. In fact, many anthropologists think meat may have played a key role in the evolution of our species. And although vegetarianism has become increasingly popular in recent years, meat of some variety is still at the center of the American plate.

PUMPING IRON AND THE B VITAMINS

Red meat in particular is a rich source of iron, which plays an important part in building muscles and healthy blood. Studies of vegetarians have discovered that they risk becoming iron deficient, which can lead to anemia. The B vitamins found in ample quantities in meat are critical for proper energy production.

OVERPROTEINED

Our ancient ancestors hunted for their meat and expended a lot of energy chasing it down. Today our animal protein is raised on feedlots and in cages and delivered in great abundance nearly to our door. We eat roughly twice as much protein as we need, according to some estimates, risking injury to our kidneys and livers. Many cuts of meat--red meat in particular--are high in the saturated fats that have been linked to heart disease. Some studies suggest that eating meat may predispose us to cancer.

TAME YOUR INNER CARNIVORE

Go ahead, enjoy your bacon cheeseburger. But make it a once- or twice-a-month extravagance. Go lean if you can, but above all, go easy. Remember that meat doesn't have to be an all-or-nothing proposition. Many dishes, such as stir-fries and salads, can incorporate small quantities of meat but still satisfy. A pasta sauce can be 25% meat and 75% vegetables. Dr. David Katz of Yale suggests eating lean beef, pork or lamb once or twice a week, chicken or turkey once or twice a week, and fish and other seafood three to four times a week. For most meat eaters, the harder goal will be to bring their portion sizes down to earth. The USDA considers 3 oz. of meat to be one serving. When was the last time you ordered a 3-oz. hamburger or rib-eye steak? Most steakhouses serve portions large enough to fulfill your red-meat rations for a couple of months.

FRUITS OF THE SEA

For a low-fat alternative to red meat, it's hard to beat seafood. Fish and shellfish with high levels of omega-3 fatty acids have been shown to lower the risk of heart disease and may reduce men's risk of prostate cancer.

STINKERS IN THE BAIT BUCKET

Seafood, however, is not perfect. Among the problems it presents:

--Fish, particularly oily fish, can concentrate toxins in their flesh. The heavy metal mercury is a particular concern. Among fish with the highest levels of mercury: swordfish, shark, tilefish and king mackerel.

--More bad news: Salmon (both farmed and, to a lesser extent, caught wild) can contain worrisome levels of PCBs.

--Freshwater anglers are advised that their catch can contain various toxins, depending on the waters they come from. In some cases, the Environmental Protection Agency advises anglers to limit their intake to one fish a week. And some species from particularly polluted waters should never be eaten under any circumstances.

GUIDELINES

The jury is still out on some of these recommendations, but to play it safe, children and pregnant or nursing women should eat no more than 12 oz. of fish a week and completely avoid swordfish, shark, mackerel and tilefish. (The rest of us can eat these once or twice a month.) It's uncertain whether tuna is a concern for children and pregnant women, but the FDA gives it safe marks for the rest of us.

GO FISH

The news is not all cautionary. You can catch--and eat--your limit with shellfish, flounder, cod, tilapia and a host of other catches-of-the-day. And don't forget the small fry: herring and sardines are high in omega-3s and low in toxins.

600 MILLION Big Macs consumed by Americans at McDonald's each year

8 BILLION Chickens raised for food each year in the U.S.

127 Number of chickens eaten per second in America

20 BILLION Number of hot dogs consumed by Americans each year

SIRLOIN TIPS

Fat grams per portion size

8-oz. 3-oz. Prime rib 83 31 Lamp chop 66 25 Sirloin steak 59 22 Pork chop 20 8 Roasted chicken breast 8 3 (no skin) Broiled fish 2 trace

Source: Encyclopedia of Foods (Academic Press)

Meat Rack

Annual pounds per capita consumed in the U.S.

1950-59 2000 Total meats 138 195

Beef 53 64 Pork 45 48 Veal/Lamb 9 2 Chicken 16 53 Turkey 4 14 Fish/shellfish 11 15 Eggs (Number) 374 250

Source: USDA Economic Research Service

INCREDIBLE, EDIBLE?

Yes, it's safe to go back to the henhouse. Eggs are a complete protein and loaded with nutrients and vitamins A, B-12, folic acid and riboflavin--probably the best bargain in the grocery store. But this doesn't mean you should start each day with a mountain of scrambled eggs. Eggs have twice the cholesterol of beef, so three or four a week are plenty.