A New Battle Of The Bulge

By Lisa Takeuchi Cullen

American soldiers preparing for a possible war with Iraq face plenty of dangers, but at least one has been eased: fat-filled mess-hall rations. Scientists at the U.S. Army Soldier Systems Center in Natick, Mass., have just finished a three-year mission to cut the fat from the military's 1,700 mess-hall recipes. The changes were made to deal with an uncomfortable reality: like many other Americans, too many soldiers are paunchy, despite weight requirements and physical training. Many military personnel hold tedious, stressful and sedentary jobs, and as a result, 54% of all military personnel are overweight and 6% are obese, according to a study done in 2000 by scientists at the Research Triangle Institute in North Carolina.

To battle the flab, food technologists in Natick sliced in half the fat and cholesterol in most recipes, says program head Elizabeth Painter. Oil in banana cake was replaced with applesauce; butter in brownies, with pureed prunes. Some recipes had to be abandoned, like perch filets breaded with crushed potato chips, doused in melted cheddar cheese and Thousand Island dressing. "That," says Painter, "is just gross." Now catfish is rolled around spinach and glazed with red-pepper sauce. The menu also features healthier grab-and-go meals like lime-chicken wraps to better compete with off-base Taco Bell and McDonald's.

Fat is a serious adversary for soldiers. In addition to the risk of diseases such as Type 2 diabetes, carrying extra pounds can make it more difficult for soldiers to scale walls or scramble out of foxholes. Unlike civilians, GIs must meet periodic weight requirements--or they can be canned. --By Lisa Takeuchi Cullen