Monday, Feb. 24, 2003

Fashion's Next Face

By Belinda Luscombe

Calvin, Donna and Ralph: revered designers, handy with a hemstitch and all, but getting a bit long in the tooth (Calvin Klein is 60, Donna Karan's 54 and Ralph Lauren's 63). Why do people who have enough disposable income to drop $200 on a shirt let their parents' generation tell them how to dress? Perhaps because the next design oligarchy has not yet clearly emerged. But during Fashion Week in New York City last week, three younger voices made themselves heard over the fray. Marc Jacobs reimagined retro futurism with a bunch of nifty jumpers-and-tights looks. Nicolas Ghesquiere, who designs for Balenciaga, presented difficult but fascinating ensembles, some resembling sea anemones in thigh boots. Narciso Rodriguez championed the pretty with impeccably proportioned dresses and evening gowns. Let the spending begin. --By Belinda Luscombe