Is There A Future In Fashion's Past?

By Valentino; Russell Simmons

The designer synonymous with glamour says we can't forget the past

BY VALENTINO

One learns many lessons in 40 years of work. I cannot forget what I learned from the past--and what I did in the past. You don't become an important designer without study and training. You cannot be a designer without knowing how to cut a dress. The only way you learn these things is by studying the work of those who worked before you.

The reason for the "staying power" of the house of Valentino for so many years is that my work has been anchored in the lessons of history, art and study. Fashion history taught me those skills.

During my first seven years as a young assistant in Paris, I earned $800 a month so that I could study with the great designers of that time, like Jean Desses and Jacques Fath. When I launched my first collections, everyone could see that some elements of my designs--the use of pleated skirts and the georgette draped dresses--were inspired by their work. That didn't make me ashamed.

And fashion isn't the only field where the past is important. It's a vital part of every form of art. People would be shocked to see the Christmas card I got from the contemporary artist Tracey Emin. It's a beautifully drawn bird--very romantic. The work of Tracey and artists like her may seem far from painting, but they all know the bases--of painting, of sculpture, of drawing.

I would like to see young fashion designers learn how to cut a dress, how to do a fitting before becoming full-fledged designers. Clothes made just for the runway, to impress with fantastic shows, don't achieve the same results.

When I was a student, I spent a lot of time in museums taking notes. Now that I know more, I find inspiration in many diverse places. On my way to work the other day, I stopped at a church in Rome and saw a painting of the Madonna. The subtle pattern of blues and golds in the embroidery of her dress was so amazing that I used it to design a new evening dress for my haute couture.

Today the exchange between the arts happens more quickly than ever before. The Internet and television mean that it can be instantaneous. I think that is great for everyone. And it makes history even more important.

It's time to move on, says the music impresario and Phat Fashions founder

BY RUSSELL SIMMONS

Some people seem to believe that the future only beholds the glory of the past. This may be why so many fashion designers turn to looks from days gone by to find their inspiration and make something that will sell.

Our view is that the future is now. If you miss what is happening today in urban communities across the nation and throughout the globe, then you will surely miss a "Phat" opportunity.

The evolution of hip-hop and urban music into a multibillion-dollar market is not an isolated phenomenon. The major players in the fashion industry should learn lessons from their corporate colleagues in music, who at first underestimated the profitability of the urban marketplace.

Phat Fashions is penetrating the fashion business successfully not just because we're good at target marketing but also, more important, because we represent a transformed view of society and the world. We're not about the past. Hip-hop and urban culture are about speaking, singing, hearing, feeling and wearing a reality that transcends race, class and division. It is about the oneness of humanity.

Over the past decade, Phat Fashions has evolved from a $500,000 boutique to a $510 million lifestyle collection with apparel, jewelry, eyewear, loungewear, fragrance, footwear, suits and accessories. The high quality of all our products remains a nonnegotiable priority.

If you think that a 24-year-old white male in Connecticut wants Polo more than Phat Farm, you are wrong. Besides, isn't there room for one new American lifestyle brand in the malls across America? The Old Guard in fashion needs a new mind-set and vision.

Given the current economic climate in the U.S., some of the leading fashion and design companies should explore the viability of forming joint ventures or other business relationships with the growing number of independent companies that have a significant reach into the hearts of the urban consumer base. A meaningful opportunity is at hand for a process of collaboration. Yet not one major manufacturer or distributor is involved in meeting this challenge.

A new American fashion is emerging, one not obsessed with the past, and the good news is that the evolution is open to all. The past is taken; the future is up for grabs.