Beyond Collagen

By Alice Park

PRODUCT Restylane, to plump lips and smooth out wrinkles

HOW IT STARTED The search for a quick-fix wrinkle remover without collagen's risk of side effects

JUDGMENT CALL Not yet FDA approved, so caveat emptor

With age comes wisdom. And with wisdom come smarter ways to hide your age. The newest way to keep up appearances: injections of Restylane, or hyaluronic acid.

The latest in cosmetic wrinkle fillers is a synthetic form of the gel-like substance that gives skin its volume and tension. Injections help plump up lips and smooth out creased lines around the mouth. The effect lasts a few months--possibly longer than the current best seller, collagen. And unlike collagen, which is usually made from cow tissue and can cause allergic reactions, Restylane is relatively side effect-free.

The bulk of users so far have been in Europe and South America, where the stuff is winning rave reviews. But Americans eager to try it should be careful. For now, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration has approved hyaluronic acid only for use in cataract surgery. Through a loophole known as off-label use, however, cosmetic surgeons here can inject it for wrinkles, so long as they and their patients realize the treatments are not regulated for their quality or their effects.

--By Alice Park