Lair Of The Dog

By Emily Mitchell/New York

Every dog must have his day, and this is Fred's. To give this story about vacations for the family dog a canine point of view, Fred, my three-year-old terrier mix, is sniffing out the NEW YORK DOG SPA & HOTEL. Following a shampoo, he is washed, dried and brushed before joining three dozen or so other dogs romping in the Manhattan facility's large indoor play space. To socialize them, trainer Andrea Smith has created separate areas for dogs of different size, temperament and adaptability. Like a kid on the first day at a new school, Fred holds back, lingering by my side while he sizes them up. But within 15 minutes, he's in the midst of the pack; I am totally superfluous.

And that's exactly how it should be. When we go on vacation, we don't want to think of our dogs sitting around at home bored and missing us--or crazed and peeing on the curtains as a symbol of resentment. We want them to be happy. For $42 a night--$45 for larger dogs--Fred would get regularly scheduled meals, walks and rest periods at the dog hotel, but just as important, he could bound and bond with fellow Fidos in a place where everybody knows his name. (For further information, telephone 212-243-1199.)

This doggy hotel isn't unique. From the rustic to the sybaritic, here are eight other spots for dogs--and sometimes their humans--to vacation in good company. LEARNING NEW TRICKS

High in the Santa Monica Mountains in California, the setting for CANYON VIEW TRAINING RANCH FOR DOGS is so spectacular that people often tell co-owner Randy Neece, "Forget the dog. I want to stay." Truth is, they probably couldn't keep up with the rigorous workouts at this five-acre Topanga Canyon facility, where as many as 25 dogs spend their days wrestling, chasing balls, swimming and doing obedience exercises. Good behavior is expected. Says Neece: "Those who aren't getting formal training learn from watching the others."

Boarding fees are $35 a night; training costs vary. It's worth every penny, according to Al and Denise Lyons, whose yellow Labrador Rosie had been a serial nipper. After Canyon View, Al says, "we had a pet who was under control." During peak vacation months, it's wise to reserve three months ahead, says comedian Sinbad, who boards his two pugs and a mixed breed there. "It's like getting your kid into a private school." (Telephone: 310-455-7897.)

The official greeter for ATLANTA DOGWORKS is Jumpin' Jess, an Australian shepherd owned by Greg Tresan. The two were three-time world finalists in disk-dog competition, but now that Jess has retired, she's "ambassadog" at Tresan's boarding and training facility on 15 pastoral acres in Ball Ground, 50 miles north of Atlanta. Tresan doesn't hold with anthropomorphizing. He wants you to enjoy your dog's natural behavior but also "bring them into your environment as welcome members of the household." At DogWorks, you can choose training in obedience, agility, herding and, of course, catching Frisbees. Daily boarding runs $15 to $20, depending on size, and training lessons start at $50. (Telephone: 770-735-6200.)

CAMPING WITH HOUNDS

Honey Loring started CAMP GONE TO THE DOGS because, as an "animal-crazy" kid she'd always wanted to take her dog to camp. Now in its 11th year, the canine camp for adults and their dogs has three separate one-week sessions in June, July and August, and fees range from $750 to $1,000. They are in different Vermont locales--a college campus, an inn and a former soccer camp--but all offer your dog the chance to spend all day with you and an exuberant pack of humans and dogs. The dog shares your room, and the only place animals aren't allowed is the dining room, where macaroni and cheese is banned and gourmet meals are served.

While Nancy Bogdanski's three children are still in school this June, she'll leave her husband at home in Durham, Conn., and take off for Vermont with the family's Newfoundland Mickey and Australian shepherd Tucker. "The more you do with a dog," says Bogdanski, "you develop a stronger bond, and you have a deeper appreciation of how intelligent they are." (Telephone: 802-387-5673.)

Dogs don't have to bark a motto at Michigan's DOG SCOUTS OF AMERICA, but they can earn merit badges in backpacking and tracking. Dogs and their people work hard from morning to night, but they can also pursue less serious interests like painting lessons for the bow-wow set, games of musical chairs and an all-pooch band. Seminars teach emergency first aid and the use of herbal medicine for dogs.

Every year owner Lonnie Olson welcomes more and more families with kids. The two six-day sessions run during June, July and August at a rustic 80-acre camp near St. Helen in wooded northern Michigan. Costs start at $650 for one person and one dog bunking together. Virginia Venning of Chicago, and her Sheltie Peaches were scouts together last summer. Says she: "It gave me the chance to live and play with my dog off leash in a safe environment."

For one week at the DOG'S CAMP in western North Carolina, our four-footed friends meet the New Age. For $900, you and your dog can go on retreat from Sept. 17 to 22 at a 4-H center in the Blue Ridge Mountains, about 20 minutes from Asheville, share a cabin and take lessons in obedience, tracking, herding and agility. It requires discipline, but Catherine Mills, who runs a competition-obedience school and organizes the camp, says, "My whole philosophy is that learning should be fun."

For the inner dog, Mills arranges classes in body wrapping and massage--also in doggy dramatics. At the end of camp, everyone gathers to watch the skits starring, of course, all the dogs. "People who do this are those who have a solid relationship with their dog," says Jackie Brown of Greenwood, S.C., who camps with Cuba, her blue-ribbon-winning Staffordshire terrier. "It doesn't matter whether they're a household pet or a champion." (Telephone: 828-684-4814.)

LAPPING UP LUXURY

A waterfall, a bone-shaped wading pool for splashing, a grassy acre for chasing and racing, and fenced-in space for digging make California's PARADISE RANCH a canine country club. Karen Estudillo, pet parent of Yorkshire terrier Mikey and Amoy, a Maltese, says she is "guilt free" when she and her husband Tom leave the dogs at the hacienda-style Sun Valley ranch. "It looks like the animals have more fun than I do when I go out."

You won't see a crate or kennel anywhere. At night pampered pooches stay in a three-bedroom Bed and Biscuit Inn, complete with windows, kitchen and a family room with TV. There are five beds in each room, and, for an extra charge, a "Bed Buddy" from the staff will stay overnight with dogs accustomed to sleeping with humans. Basic boarding is $45 a day; with behavior and obedience classes, the weekly fee is $500. (Telephone: 818-768-8708.)

Just a stick's throw away from Los Angeles International Airport, the KENNEL CLUB/LAX rates five stars in any dog's guidebook. Besides traditional dog runs for $18 to $25 a day, the air-conditioned club has 148-sq.-ft. private rooms, each decorated in a different theme and equipped with a VCR player showing dog videos. (Daily cost: $43.) To accommodate airport arrivals and departures, the club is open 24 hours every day.

The cottages surround an indoor courtyard where heftier hounds can trot on a treadmill and quieter pups can cluster for story time and a snack. An outside yard has a pool and an agility course with hoops, tunnels and a slalom run. You can request custom packages that include a Yappy Hour with gourmet biscuits or outdoor picnics for your dog and a few closest pals. "When we pick him up, he never wants to leave," says Stephanie Ruthberg, 11, of Beau, her family's Bouvier des Flandres. "He thinks of it as camp, so when we go away, we don't have to worry about him because he always has fun." (Telephone: 310-338-9166.)

Signing in at CLUB PET INTERNATIONAL in Chantilly, Va., is like registering at the Ritz. You have to fill out a lengthy pet profile for personality, allergies, temperament, health and special medical needs. In addition to daily boarding for $15.50 (under 35 lbs.) or $17.50 (larger beasts), there are "spa packages" with extra play periods, quiet times with one-on-one petting, a nature walk, a dip in the pool and treats like Frosty Paws ice cream. "There is so much kindness here," says Richard Rae, whose three Akitas have checked into Club Pet 30 times. "My dogs come out healthy, happy and smelling great."

The club resembles a rural resort, with a complex of kennels painted in earth tones and 10 acres of landscaped gardens and fields. Near Dulles Airport, it's convenient for people working at the growing number of dotcoms and other businesses in the rapidly expanding area. At the end of their stay, dogs take home a Club Pet Camper Card, rating them as Happy Camper, Paw-fect Pet or Little Devil. Fred could get all three. (Telephone: 703-471-7818.)

--With reporting by Leslie Everton Brice/Atlanta, Deborah Edler Brown/Los Angeles, Anne Moffett/Washington and Maggie Sieger/Chicago

With reporting by Leslie Everton Brice/Atlanta, Deborah Edler Brown/Los Angeles, Anne Moffett/Washington and Maggie Sieger/Chicago