Peace in the Middle East--or Brewskis at Mecklenburg's?

By Melissa August, Ann Blackman, Val Castronovo, Matthew Cooper, Tam Gray, Daniel Levy, Ellin Martens, Anne Moffett, Bill Syken and Josh Tyrangiel

You're an Israeli or Syrian diplomat in Shepherdstown, W.Va., and you're bushed from a day of haggling over your historic treaty. Don't just curl up with room service. Get out and mingle! This may be a four-stop-sign town, but its 1,274 residents are a gumbo of army and CIA retirees, artists, naturists--and there's a thriving gay community too. Our guide for fun-loving peacemakers:

1 The Opera House: Art movies in Shepherdstown? You bet your Bergman, baby.

2 Betty's Restaurant: A breakfast institution. Betty works the grill; Elsa serves with a smile.

3 Bavarian Inn: The mayor's favorite hangout; serves Continental and traditional German fare.

4 On the Wings of Angels: Need peaceful inspiration? This boutique serves your spiritual side.

5 Mecklenburg Inn: Previously a post office and a morgue. Now a hip tavern with garden.

6 The Antler Hotel: Houses a half-scale model of James Rumsey's steamboat.

7 O'Hurley's General Store: O'Hurley's motto: "If I find something in the 1902 Sears catalog, I want to stock it."

8 Clarion Hotel: Diplomats, You Are Here.