American Notes SOUTH DAKOTA

After Jack McCall shot Wild Bill Hickok in the back during an afternoon poker game in the Saloon Number 10 a century ago, gambling became a part of the rugged Wild West image prized by Deadwood, S. Dak. But in the 1960s the tiny town (pop. 1,900) nestled in the Black Hills outlawed gambling. And when the town's four brothels were shut down as public nuisances by a posse of federal, state and local law-enforcement personnel in 1980, Deadwood's tourist trade began to fade. "When we had open gambling here, when we had the cathouses, we had hunters by the droves," says Ted Williams, a downtown businessman. "Most of them forgot their guns at home."

Now townsfolk are betting that Deadwood's tourism would be rekindled by the return of limited gambling. This week local voters are expected to approve a law allowing blackjack, poker and slot machines in the town. According to Mayor Tom Blair, all proceeds from the gambling, which could amount to as much as $600,000 annually, will be used to restore Deadwood's historic buildings. With bets on card games limited to $5, players should be able to enjoy a game without having to watch their backs.