Rating the Waters

By Mimi Sheraton

Connoisseurship apparently knows no limits. Many people who used to ask for whiskey by the brand now do the same with sparkling water. Some may even distinguish among flavors, but not if ice cubes and lime are used. Differences are hard to spot, even when the waters are downed neat, but they do exist, as the chart indicates. Brands of club soda and carbonated mineral water are ranked by preference and rated as follows: four bottles, excellent; three, very good; two, good; one, fair; zero, must suit tastes other than mine.

CHART:

Name Country Gallons sold Comments Rating

of origin in 1984 *

San Pellegrino Italy 550,000 A real charmer with a lively, gentle fi zz. Clear, springwater flavor is balanced and sprightly.

Saratoga U.S.A. 250,000 There's a bracing lilt to the soft fizz . The clear, neutral flavor has a slightly dry, citric pungency.

Perrier France 11,900,000 Dependably neutral when cold, but a mineral taste develops. Overly strong fizz softens quickly.

White Rock U.S.A. 2,200,000 Moderately strong fizz. Sunny lemon flavor is pleasantly astringent, if a bit distracting.

Poland Spring U.S.A. 7,000,000 Fizz is a bit overpowering. Gen erally acceptable flavor with some citric-sodium aftertaste.

Canada Dry U.S.A. 48,000,000 Despite an overly strong fizz, this has a fairly neutral flavor with mild saline-citric accents.

Apollinaris W. Ger. 300,000 Strong, needling fizz and a warm, hea vy mineral flavor that suggests bicarbonate of soda.

Calistoga U.S.A. 4,500,000 After the gently soft fizz, it's all downhill. Musty, earthy flavor has salt-sodium overtones.

Seagram's U.S.A. 2,800,000 Sugar-water sweetness is a real shock er. Citric bitterness develops later. Moderate fizz.

Schweppes U.S.A .27,000,000 A prevailing citric-saline bitterness makes this dry in the mouth. Fizz is extremely strong.

* Figures estimated by Beverage Marketing Corp.