The Majlis: Desert Democracy

Saudi Arabia is a feudal monarchy, but at least one institution of the country gives it the flavor of a desert democracy. That is the majlis (Arabic for a "sitting," although the word can also mean "council," or even "parliament"). According to Arab custom, reinforced by a 1952 decree of King Abdul Aziz, every subject has the right of access to his ruler, whether the ruler is a tribal sheik, a governor or the monarch himself, to present petitions of complaint or pleas for help. Even the poorest Saudi can approach his sovereign to plead a cause; functionaries of the royal court found guilty of improperly turning aside a petitioner face severe punishment.

Every day but Thursday and Friday, the Muslim weekend, King Khalid, Crown Prince Fahd and other leading dignitaries hold informal majalis at which citizens come forward to beg favors or present grievances. Twice a week there are larger, formal majalis at which hundreds may appear. TIME Cairo Bureau Chief Wilton Wynn attended one session at which Prince Fahd presided. His report:

The hour-long majlis took place in an audience chamber big enough to accommodate a basketball court. The maroon carpet was wall-to-wall, and armchairs in green or gold upholstery bordered the room. The green walls were decorated with a palm branch motif. From the center of the ceiling hung a large crystal chandelier, and from each corner, a smaller chandelier.

A>> the petitioners filed in, Fahd stood to receive them. One by one, they greeted him, kissing him on the forehead, on the nose, or the shoulder. They handed their written petitions to an aide standing beside the Prince; these would be considered later and directed to the appropriate government agency for action. Then the visitors took their seats around the walls. A royal aide wearing a curved sword served bitter cardamom-flavored coffee, while another sword-bearing retainer followed to collect the tiny, round-bottomed cups.

Next came the turn of those who wished to present their petitions orally. Some knelt before Fahd, who was now seated. Others whispered in his ear, addressing him simply by his first name. The Prince listened to all patiently, occasionally murmuring instructions to his assistants. Among the first petitioners was an aged, crippled, nearly blind man, barefoot and leaning on a cane. He was destitute and was asking for money. Another petitioner had a pregnant wife; he also pleaded for princely largesse. A third needed help to rebuild his house, which had burned down. Another came from a remote district that lacked water and electricity, and he wanted action from the government.

At long last, a palace official asked:

"Are there any more petitions?" There were none, and the majlis ended. Later the Prince and his assistants would go over the pleas presented that day. Those that involved legal matters would be referred to the courts; petitioners seeking money would be granted assistance if their plight was deemed worthy.

Fahd's informal majalis usually take place after evening prayers. Petitioners are then invited to join the Prince for dinner. In the huge dining room of Maazar Palace in Riyadh, a black-tied maitre d'hotel supervised waiters in white robes who on this occasion served Q, meal consisting of asparagus soup, fried shrimps with tartar sauce, kebabs with cooked vegetables, a ragout of okra, meat and rice with almonds, chocolate cake, watermelon and fruit. Most of the guests were not from Saudi Arabia's upper class; many appeared to be desert tribesmen. There was no ceremony at the table, and no distinction between rich and poor. A few guests finished quickly and left without so much as glancing at their host. Others stayed to sip coffee with the Prince in the palace corridor. There were, of course, no women present.

"The custom of inviting everyone to the palace table goes back to King Abdul Aziz," said the Prince during dinner. "It's not that the people lack food. Some of them eat better at home than they do here. But they come to discuss their personal problems, and they stay for dinner. Anyone in the kingdom is welcome to this table, no matter what his status. If they were all bankers or army generals, it would be assumed they were invited because of their position. But these are simple people. Anyone, anyone can come here, and that gives them confidence in their government. It is very important psychologically that they know they may look to us for help."

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