Hava Nagila in Egypt

Not since the days when the Pharaoh turned to Joseph for help have Jews been so enthusiastically welcome in Egypt. The Israelis (some 25 officials and 100 journalists) arriving at the Cairo conference last week were so deeply moved by their cordial reception that some, for a moment, may have even forgotten that their country and Egypt technically remained at war. TIME Correspondent William Stewart witnessed this emotional reverse exodus and cabled the following report:

Anyone carrying an Israeli passport has long been a pariah in Egypt--but not this week; in fact, there was a definite advantage in being an Israeli. "Everyone has been so friendly," remarked one Israeli journalist. "And I still can't believe we're actually here and right in front of the pyramids too." Said Ehud Yarri, an Israeli TV commentator: "We had our doubts before we landed in Cairo, but when they saw the Israeli passports, they just applauded." Later, during a tour of the capital, a group of Israelis were spotted by Cairenes at a cafe", who shouted; "Long live Sadat! Long live the Israeli delegation of peace!" With that, other Egyptians began clapping and crying: "Shalom! Shalom!"

In the euphoria, one Israeli correspondent even managed to get an interview with Mrs. Sadat. But for Shabtai Tal, Israeli correspondent for the West German magazine Stern, his most moving moment may have come during dinner with another Israeli at a restaurant near the pyramids. When the proprietor discovered the diners' identities, the restaurant's small band immediately struck up the stirring strains of Hava Nagila, the popular Israeli folk song. Said Tal.later: "Can you imagine what it was like for me to hear that song played in Egypt? It was like a dream." Moving about the capital, other Israelis often found themselves the focus of friendly curiosity. Reported TIME Photographer David Rubinger, an Israeli citizen: "My left arm is blue from people pinching me to see if I'm real."

Israelis back home shared in the excitement. During an hour-long broadcast by Israel's Armed Forces Radio, listeners had the chance to phone in questions for the network's correspondents in Cairo. One Israeli woman wanted a description of Egyptian fashions. A listener from Haifa asked about poverty in Egypt and was told by his countryman on the scene: "There are some depressing sights here, but there have been a lot of improvements as well."

The only difficulties the Israelis seem to have encountered were the typical delays caused by Egypt's chronic bureaucratic chaos. After landing at Cairo International Airport, it took hours for Israeli journalists to wind their way through the labyrinth of customs and security procedures. Remarked one Israeli: "My God, I'll never complain about our bureaucracy again."

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