Fare Game

From Armenian to Ukrainian, practically every cuisine in the world is available in New York City's 20,000 restaurants. But in many of these places, one does not live by matzoth, pita or tortillas alone. People go to some restaurants to see or be seen. Visitors are usually torn about trying those famous--and expensive --places that often threaten humiliation in some Siberia or ketchup room reserved for anonymous (to the maitre d') citizens.

Some will be tempted by well-known names like "21" (52nd St. between Fifth Ave. and Avenue of the Americas), where the captain may greet all but nationally known politicians with a fastidious shudder and escort them to Transalpine Gaul. The food is expensive and sometimes worth it. Yet another costly place, Lafayette, is notoriously snotty. In the same see-and-be-seen class, La Grenouille and La Cote Basque offer wonderful food--it is all terrifically expensive--but without the same hauteur. Elaine's (Second Ave. at 88th St.), an Upper East Side Italian restaurant, is a favorite of New York literati, media heroes, publishers and assorted recognizable people. But the food is third-rate and outsiders are exiled to the back room. It is a serious mistake for anyone who is not George Plimpton to go there. On the other hand, Sardi's (234 W. 44th St.) is an eminently friendly place to watch the theater folk. The Russian Tea Room (150 W. 57th St.) offers an occasional famous face, along with some of the best Russian food since the revolution.

It is always wise to remember the captain or maitre d' of a top Manhattan restaurant. Though he will curtly accept a tip (usually $2 or $3) as his due, the failure to pay homage may cause him to pursue a departing diner, somewhat like a crow cawing at a hapless cat, with elaborate and sarcastic expressions of thanks; if he has seen your credit card, he may personalize the departure--"Thank you, Mr. Bumblebottom" --practically onto the street.

Generally, wise visitors will avoid celebrity shows and concentrate on the food. At Windows on the World (107th floor of the World Trade Center), that might be difficult; the food is excellent, and the view is one of the most spectacular in the world. Reservations are normally required two weeks in advance, but visitors should go anyhow and sit in the Hors d'Oeuvrerie, where they can have sushi, steak tartare and other nibbles. Other restaurants combining fine food and wonderful decor: Cafe des Artistes (67th St. just off Central Park West) and Maxwell's Plum (64th St. and First Ave.), somewhat fantastically decorated with stained glass and Tiffany lamps, among other things.

Arguably the best steak house is Christ Cella (160 E. 46th St.) and the best seafood place the Gloucester House (37 E. 50th St.), both expensive. The two best French restaurants in town are La Caravelle (33 W. 55th St.) and Lutece (249 E. 50th St.). Bring money.

After these, and beyond hope of cataloguing, everyone has his own favorite, relatively inexpensive bistro (one might be Chez Napoleon, 365 W. 50th St.). Chinatown almost requires a special course of study, in which the thoughts of Chairman Mao will not help, but the best midtown Chinese restaurant is Pearl's (38 W. 48th St.), where the acoustics are so bad you cannot hear yourself talk (but who wants to?).

Italian restaurants in New York are as varied as Italian music, ranging from robust hurdy-gurdy (Alfredo's Settebello, 10th St. and Seventh Ave.) to grand opera (Giambelli, 238 Madison Ave.; Giordano, 409 W. 39th St.; and San Marco, 52 W. 55th St.). Finally, Ray's Pizza (11th St. and Avenue of the Americas) has the best in New York --although some would argue that the distinction belongs to a two-link chain of quintessential New York restaurants (at Second Ave. at 52nd St. and Third Ave. at 20th St.). Their name: Goldberg Pizzeria.

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