No Peak, Just Pique

Mountain climbing is a symbol of man's loftiest aspirations: a test of mettle, a purification of the soul, a reach for the heavens. George Leigh Mallory, asked why he wished to climb Mount Everest, solemnly replied, "Because it is there." If asked the same question, the most recent adventurers to tackle the peak would probably respond differently: "Because we want to beat the guy from the other country."

The latest expedition consisted of 15 climbers: seven Austrians, two Germans, one Tyrol Italian, one Swiss, one Iranian and three Britons. Last March this oddly mixed international team of mountaineers set out to scale the 29,028-ft. summit over the unconquered southwest face. After more than two months of quarrelsome efforts, they descended into a maelstrom of pique.

From the beginning, the expedition was split into rival factions--led, respectively, by the British and the Austrians. According to Britisher Don Whillans, the Austrians "were afraid of us getting into the lead." Said German Climber Michel Anderl caustically: "The precious contribution of the British was to help consume 16 bottles of oxygen and eat enormous quantities of food." Supplies seemed to be a considerable problem. Native Sherpas staged one brief strike when the climbers reached 17,550 ft. and threatened another one unless their demands for more food and equipment were met. While Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer left the expedition to get more supplies, Anderl became the target of some Sherpa trade union tactics: they stoned him, and one threatened to disconnect his head with an ice ax.

The magic mountain may have taken offense at these pettifoggeries, because more ill fortune fell on the expedition. When Dr. Herrligkoffer returned, he suffered either a mild heart attack or pulmonary edema. Then the Italian, Leo Breitenberger, suffered a lung seizure, which was followed by a mental breakdown. Austrian Werner Haim sustained a severe leg injury, and several others fell ill. That left only two Austrians and the three British, who spent more time arguing over who was to lead than in actual climbing. The British quit in disgust, and soon the remaining Austrians were forced down by inclement weather.

The final, saddening comment was provided by the Iranian, Mischa Saleki who informally decamped via the supply helicopter: "It is better for one nation to go up a mountain." Indomitable Everest, looking on in silent disdain must surely have agreed.

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