The Bosom Rediscovered

No sooner had Paris showings ended than fashion editors and buyers flew back into New York last week, right into a ten-day marathon viewing of U.S. summer collections. What they saw was in many respects just as good as what they had seen in Paris, and in some ways --because U.S. designers are closer to the mass market--even better.

To be sure, echoes of Paris were everywhere. Culottes, shorts and bloomers were big; so, as in Paris, were belts, textured stockings and lots of bright African prints. Hemlines were lower by a smidgen--but still high enough to expose an ample expanse of thigh.

The big difference was that the U.S. designers had rediscovered the bosom. "The flat-chested look is out," proclaimed Jacques Tiffeau, who sent forth full-busted models in dresses with big square-cut armholes that gave a peekaboo side view of the breast. Chester Weinberg, Mollie Parnis and Pauline Trigere, among others, unmuffled their models with deeply slashed V necklines. Donald Brooks showed billowing evening pajamas with a low, ruffled, horseshoe-shaped decolletage.

Star of the showings was West Coast Designer James Galanos. His dresses were often tailored close to the figure, and belts were placed high to emphasize the bosom. One culotte dress had large, oval-cut armholes, another a V neck slashed almost to the navel. Evening gowns featured the bare look with slanting necklines draped off one shoulder.

Clearly, more of the same bosomy look lay ahead. Jo Hughes, who organizes fashion showings for Bergdorf Goodman, ordered up a completely new string of girls to model the store's clothes. The girls this time, she promised, would be "much more chesty."

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