Pegleg from Paris

Pierre Cardin is one of Paris' most creative couturiers, famous as the man who eight years ago first put models in crash helmets, two years ago matched short skirts with stockings and slashed the decolletages. Nicole Alphand was known as Washington's hostess par excellence in the Kennedy era, famed for her charm, elegance and political savvy (TIME cover, Nov. 22, 1963). Together they are proving an unbeatable team.

Despite raised eyebrows at the Quai d'Orsay, Nicole announced her appointment as Cardin's publicity director soon after Husband Herve Alphand was recalled from his post as French ambassador. Explained Nicole, who has been on the International Best-Dressed List for six years: "It is time that someone did something for Frenchwomen. One should give them the possibility, even on a small budget, to have the stamp of a great couturier."

Optical Illusion. Pierre was also ready for the mass market. Having already launched a women's line, he decided to branch out in male fashions as well, two years ago began producing a full line of custom and ready-to-wear men's clothes. His men's fashions now gross $8,000,000 a year, five times the gross of his women's line. Among Cardin's customers: Gregory Peck, Cecil Beaton, Yul Brynner and George Hamilton.

What's Pierre's line all about? Says Cardin: "My fashion is elegant and sexy for men." He himself is his own best advertisement for sartorial splendor. In Manhattan last week to plan a Cardin boutique that opens next September at Bonwit Teller, he was sporting a three-button, single-breasted suit with extra-long coat and high-rising pleated side vents. Cardin also likes slacks with colored stripes up the side, flowered dinner jackets, four-inch-high collars and square hats. It is not, he insists, an Edwardian look: "I never look backward. I design for tomorrow. N'est-ce pas, Nicole?"

"Pierre's clothes are perfect for women of any age," clued in the fashion ambassadress, herself wearing a loose-fitting Cardin suit that reached mid-knee. "I just lower the hemline. When you are older you have to work harder to find what's right for your age. Some women do not want to make that effort. Isn't that right, Pierre?"

"I repeat and repeat and repeat that short skirts are fine for women of all ages if they are worn with heavy, matching stockings and shoes. Of course when I design, I think of the youngest age. Today mothers like to copy their daughters. Except for you, Nicole. You are the daughter and your daughter is the mother."

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