Death Lurks in the Kitchen

At first glance, the solemn editorial in the A.M.A. Journal seemed a generation out of date. Why worry about salmonellosis? This form of food poisoning can be prevented by standard modern methods of hygienic food handling, by common kitchen cleanliness, by proper cooking and by ordinary household refrigeration. But the A.M.A. was worried--and with reason. In the last 20 years, despite modern kitchens the reported cases of salmonellosis have increased tenfold, and so far this year there have been 13,500 cases, a rate that is an ominous 69% above the 1963 level.

The Salmonella* bacillus has no fewer than 800 strains, most of which live in the gastrointestinal tracts of chickens, livestock, domestic pets and human carriers. The illness-producing germs are easily spread. Scientific tests have turned up the astonishing fact that as much as 58% of all meat in some U.S. cities is infected.

Once salmonella bacilli have infected a food, they wait patiently for the opportunity to multiply--and one of the places they multiply best is, unfortunately, in U.S. kitchens. Refrigeration curbs but does not kill them; meat or fowl left standing at room temperature for a few hours becomes an ideal breeding place. Unwashed hands and contaminated utensils can also spread the infection. Only thorough cooking kills the germs.

The A.M.A. warns that such foods as cut-up poultry, eggs, prepared meats, cake mixes and custard-filled bakery products are most likely to be contaminated because they are handled so often and so lightly cooked. In May, after 200 people from Utah were stricken with salmonellosis, food detectives traced the cause to infected frozen eggs used by local bakers. An outbreak that affected 300 people in Washington State last year was also traced to a frozen-egg product used in lemon meringue pies. Modern mass-production methods of food processing sometimes help spread salmonella, for one bad egg, one bad chicken, can contaminate a carload. A healthy person generally gets over salmonella-caused attacks of diarrhea, vomiting and mild fever in two to five days, but in persons already weakened by other diseases, food poisoning can be fatal. In any case, say U.S. Public Health Service doctors, who share the A.M.A.'s concern about salmonella's upsurge, the problem would be solved if only food handlers would keep their hands clean and if housewives would refrigerate food promptly and take the trouble to heat any leftover meat or fowl at a high temperature for three minutes before serving.

* So called in honor of U.S. Pathologist Daniel E. Salmon.

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