The Champagne Touch

Christmas dinner for the poor, to most American charities, is turkey army style, some nice wholesome oranges, and above all, no booze. From this proposition Chicago's Roman Catholic Little Brothers of the Poor dissent in every respect, except that the main dish must be traditional. Last week they started their dinner for 350 of the city's aged and indigent by serving hot rum punch. They embellished the meal itself with lobster salad, cake, and compote of fruit flambe, expertly cooked by the Little Brothers. They served French champagne, and the 117 dozen roses used as table decorations were given away to the guests afterward.

The Little Brothers believe that nothing is too good for those who have nothing. They offer superbly cooked meals--with wine, flowers and candles --to 15 or 20 of Chicago's poor every two weeks. In summer, they provide free vacations for twelve older people each month at a pleasant cottage on Delavan Lake, Wisconsin. Their ideal of a truly welcome gift for a penniless old woman is not a bundle of used clothing but a diamond ring on her silver wedding anniversary.

Founded in France in 1946 by Armand Marquiset, a rich Catholic nobleman, the Little Brothers came to Chicago four years ago, have successfully tested their technique of "luxurious charity" in several French cities and in Montreal, Naples and Casablanca. The 50 permanent members of this "pious union," who get financial and other aid from 1,000 associate and auxiliary members, are all Catholic laymen, although they take monastic vows of poverty, chastity and obedience. They also have to become master chefs during their novitiate, and many have been trained by Paris' famed Cordon Bleu cooking school.

Offering their gifts and gourmet meals to the poor of all faiths, the Brothers believe that their work is particularly necessary in the welfare state, which can provide men with the necessities of life but not the luxuries that give grace, joy and meaning to existence. "We try to have the personal touch for the poor in this world of the Social Security card," says French-born Michel Salmon, head of Chicago's four Brothers. "We try to help them because they are Mr. and Mrs. So-and-So, not because they are poor."

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