Storm over the Mountain

Proud Britons acclaimed the ascent of Everest as an achievement of the race that bore Raleigh, Nelson and Rhodes. To Asians it quickly became the personal--and national--triumph of a nut-brown little Sherpa who cannot read or write but who has grappled oftener with Everest (eleven expeditions) than any man alive.

When the victory news hit Nepal, where 37 year-old Tenzing was born, the government proposed that May 29 should henceforth be a national holiday, known as Tenzing Day. In India, where he lives (in a Darjeeling slum), a public subscription was opened to build him a new home, and when he and Hillary arrived at New Delhi Airport this week, 3,000 fans burst the police cordons and swept him a quarter mile down the runway, shouting "Tenzing Zindabad!" (Long Live Tenzing).

Such hero-worshiping frenzy nurtured flames of nationalism that already were licking at the bright achievement itself. Nepalese busily spread the rumor that Tenzing had first gained the summit, then hauled up the New Zealander, who was too weak to make it alone. This provoked Colonel Hunt to turn rumor into row by insisting that it was Hillary who led all the way. Hunt also observed, with a patronizing qualification, that "Tenzing is a brilliant climber, within the limitations of his experience."

Tenzing, who at the age of ten was herding Tibetan yaks above 20,000 ft., was riled at his leader's remark. Egged on by Nepalese hotheads (including Communists), he was induced to sign a statement, which he could not read, saying: "I practically directed operations from Khumbu Glacier On . . ."

Queen Elizabeth's decision to knight Hunt and Hillary, but to delay decorating Tenzing until his nationality had been established, made matters worse. King Tribhuvan of Nepal decided to even things up by giving Tenzing the Star of Nepal. First Class, while dismissing the two Britons with the lesser Order of the Strong Right Arms of the Gurkhas. He offered Tenzing his private plane, while Hunt and the British were left to go it alone.

Finally Colonel Hunt called a press conference for Tenzing, Hillary and himself. They all agreed that the two men, roped together, had in effect reached the summit simultaneously. "A magnificent and wonderful comrade," said Hunt of Tenzing. "My own brothers," said Tenzing. "Hillary is my lifelong friend."

This week they planned to fly to London together, to tell it to the Queen.

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