Pashka

In Moscow the winter snow had vanished. Street vendors were selling daffodils at 3 rubles each. Gourmets could buy tiny hothouse cucumbers, small succulent leaves of early lettuce, tiny radishes and tomatoes. Women discarded fur hats and thick wool shawls for bright head scarves. The sun came out. The Russian Pashka (Easter, a week later on the Julian calendar) had arrived in Moscow.

On Easter Eve, Russians of all ages, types and uniforms milled about with the candles they would light at midnight. The greatest excitement centered around Epiphany Cathedral, where the Patriarch Alexei--assisted by his metropolitans and bishops--would officiate. Twelve thousand Muscovites churned and shouted gaily in the clear starry night outside. Inside the cathedral were 7,000 more, unlit candles in hand.

At midnight, in his organ voice, the Patriarch chanted, "Christ is risen, Christ is risen," while the choir and the 7,000 took up the refrain. Light from the Patriarch's candle, touched quickly to a dozen others, spread through the nave. Gorgeous in his robes of silvered silk and wearing a pearl-and-diamond crown, the Patriarch swung his fragrant censer, blessed them all.

The Patriarch mounted the rostrum in the middle of the nave. Acolytes ceremonially stripped him of his outer robes and crown. Then over the Patriarch's shoulders they draped three layers of bright, resurrection-season vestments--scarlet and gold in place of silver, a crown of gold and rubies for the pearl-and-diamond one. As each vestment was presented to him on a velvet-covered silver salver, the Patriarch reverently kissed it. For the last time the acolytes came forward with the salver. Typically Russian pomp turned to typically Russian casualness. The Patriarch did not kiss the object he took from the salver; it was not sacred. He simply picked up the large yellow, celluloid comb (lacking three teeth) and combed the patriarchal hair and beard in full view of the congregation.

Outside, at 2 a.m. Easter morning, thousands still stood before the cathedral, listening to the music and occasionally crossing themselves. As they drifted away, acquaintances gave the traditional Russian Easter greeting, "Christ is risen," and the answer, "He is truly risen," and exchanged the ceremonial three kisses.

This happened last Sunday, in the 30th year after the Revolution.

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