Bush

THE COMPLETE WINE BOOK--Frank Schoonmaker & Tom & Marvel--Simon & Schuster ($2.50).

Good wine needs no bush, but U. S. wine-bibbers, still weltering in the unaccustomed freedom of Repeal, do not know good wine from bad. "Purposely delayed until the excitement of repeal had abated," The Complete Wine Book proposes to tell U. S. amateurs how to know, buy, store, make, serve wines. Far from first of its kind in the field, it is most complete, most up-to-date of the lot. Written plainly, authoritatively, it attacks the "ridiculous ritual" and "absurd snobbishness" which have sprung up around U. S. wine-drinking, appeals to common sense rather than pretentious palates.

Authors Schoonmaker & Marvel put in a chapter of good words for U. S. wine, say the U. S. has a needless inferiority complex about its domestic wine, but will have to clean house in the matter of dishonest labeling. They give a chapter apiece to the wines of France, Germany. Italy, Spain and Portugal; tell how to buy wine--what to ask the dealer, what prices are right. Anxious hostesses may consult a table showing what wine to serve with what dish. (Beer-swillers, whiskey-totters will find nothing for them in The Complete Wine Book; but Authors Schoonmaker & Marvel append a final chapter on brandies, liqueurs, vermouth.)

The Authors present respectable credentials. Frank Schoonmaker has roamed the vineyards of Europe many years, "collecting information and pleasant experiences," for the past year has been wine correspondent for the New Yorker. Tom Marvel, Connecticut vineyard-owner, is now on the Paris staff of the New York Herald, has served on French wine juries, written home about wine.

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