Fine Feathers

Seven long, lean years have depressed the U. S. feather industry. So low did prices sink that even ostrich feathers, an aristocrat of the group, were being stuffed into pillows and mattresses. During the last few months, however, a great revival has been started by the feather-capped Empress Eugenie hats (TIME, Aug. 3). Raw ostrich which recently brought $15 a pound last week fetched $50 to $60. Lesser feathers showed equally heartening gains, except for the duck division. So overproduced are duck feathers that last week a Long Island dealer in them asked the State Department if a sale to Germany could not be arranged on terms similar to those proposed for overproduced U. S. wheat, cotton, copper. To feather-men throughout the world this was cause for great rejoicing; to ostrich farmers in South Africa who have not killed their birds it was a vindication, although they still recall the high of $175 a pound reached in the boom days of 1910-1912. The ostrich reaches his prime in three years. During his period of immaturity he is delicate, must be kept out of the rain. The mature bird likes alfalfa, builds large nests. Every nine months its feathers are clipped, a process which the tame bird learns to relish. Wing feathers from a male are ivory-white, known as Whites, or spotted, known as Byocks; the drabbish wing feathers from his mate are known as Feminas and Greys. Tail feathers are Boos. A prime bird will yield about 20 oz. of feathers at each clipping. When not being clipped he is apt to roam about, find sport (not supposed escape from danger) in burrowing his head into sand and pebbles. Generations and generations of ostriches have passed on the information that pebbles are essential to their digestion. When approached or frightened during such relaxation he will make off at great speed. Most of the feathers now being used are from the harvest of bygone years, for the feathers will keep from 30 to 40 years if placed in camphor.

Best ostrich territory is the Cape of Good Hope. In 1925 there were 1,000,000 birds being grown there; now there are only about 25,000. (This of course does not include the strong-legged, ferocious wild ostrich often found herding with zebras and antelopes.) There are also ostrich farms in Egypt. Algeria, the French Riviera and the U. S. Largest U. S. farms (Jacksonville, Los Angeles) are run chiefly for tourists. One near Los Angeles used to buy plumes in Manhattan, paste them onto the birds' tails, sell them at 50-c- each, freshly clipped. Biggest Cape of Good Hope farm belongs to Sir Lewis Richardson, supports 1,000 birds. London is the prime market, but the regular monthly auctions have been abandoned. Big U. S. feather firms buy direct from Cape farms, smaller ones go to importers. Most other feathers are also imported. China furnishes plumage from swans and peacocks. Pheasant and partridge feathers, the only ones from wild birds which may be imported to the U. S., come from Great Britain. Guinea hen feathers are imported from Italy, barnyard feathers from Czechoslovakia. Thanks to Empress Eugenie, the industry is confident of a good demand until October.--

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