Fall Forecast

Dallas housewives, Shreveport stenographers, Spokane waitresses, Chicago socialites--all fashion-conscious women in the U. S. were the invisible, ultimate spectators of a spectacle last week in Manhattan/s Astor Hotel. Despite the heat, a parade of mannequins marched all evening, dressed and redressed for next autumn. It was a march stolen on Paris. The fall fashion show of the Garment Retailers of America forecast the following features and trends.

Silhouets. Still sheathed closely from shoulder to hip, adventuring downward into 18th Century exaggerations--godets, tiers, ruffles, puffs, bustles.

Skirts. No knees, even for sportswear, which drops two inches. Four to six added inches for afternoon, twelve to 15 for evening, bringing many frocks in slanting fashion to the floor, adding trains.

Hats. Still mainly smooth to the head but trending to draped turbans. Small- feather trimmings. Some, adventurous, wear low wide back brims of a salty flavor, reminiscent of fishermen's waterproofs.

Suits. Much in evidence, mannish, some times sleekly furred. Their jackets favor fingertip lengths, have revers and collars. Many have no buttons. The blouses carry over from the summer, have no sleeves.

Ensembles will be more widely worn than ever.

Colors. Stylists noted dark brown and wine red predominated, relieved by orange, royal blue, chartreuse, honey-beige, carnelian. Black and white is "in," as always.

Fabrics. Velvets, transparent and patterned; chiffons and rayons shot through with metal threads; woolens ingeniously woven through with small wisps of feathers.

Plugged like a new jazz song was the trouser mode for women at last week's show. Having established the once unpopular ensemble, U. S. couturiers are now busy trying to put over the glorified pajama and its offspring, the feminine overall, at least for luncheon, tea, tennis, beach strolling. The opinion of most buyers last week was that part-time trousers for women are just wandering, have gotten nowhere yet.