Monday, Sep. 17, 1923
Two Tales
From U.S. Senators King (Utah) and Ladd (North Dakota), now in Russia, came some "first impressions." Both Senators are writing for the Hearst press.
From WILLIAM H. KING:
Russia in General: "As one enters Russia for the first time . . . one is overwhelmed by its vastness. Its sheer physical extent makes it a land of fable and mystery."
Red Flag. "Looking from the window of the car as our train approached the Russian border, my attention was attracted by a flag of the Soviet Government flying from the top of the frontier station. Doubtless it was once red, perhaps deep red, . . . but the winds had whipped it and the elements had beaten it until its carmine hue had faded. It looked colorless to me."
Minsk, capital of White Russia. "Minsk is a sprawling city. . . Most of the buildings seemed dilapidated, but I was surprised at the number of stores and shops open, although it was evident their stocks were limited. . . . We visited the main Church, constructed 600 years ago. It is typical of the Greek Orthodox architecture, noted for its cupolas and turrets. I had a long talk with the priest who, with tears in his eyes and bowing very low, expressed his welcome to the American visitors and took the opportunity to convey the gratitude his people felt to the U.S. for the aid rendered Russia during the famine. It was a touching scene. He spoke of the acute schism in the Church, and gave us his blessing."
Borisov. "In Borisov, another White Russian town, . . . one could see the blackened ruins of buildings destroyed by fire during the last war with Poland. I talked with several men . . . who said that the Poles had set fire to the factories of the city, which are not yet restored, because private capital is not permitted to rebuild and operate them."
Moscow. "Moscow is bewildering at first. Its colossal size, its great streets and avenues, its countless side-alleys and byways, its mighty churches and large apartment houses impress one as a complete microcosm, indeed a big world of its own. I was surprised at the large number of shops and business houses open. . . . As I expected, the city itself shows evidences of disrepair. I saw no new buildings under construction, but numerous old buildings are undergoing repair. Many of the ill-paved streets are in the hands of contractors, who are restoring them. The thousands of horse-drawn droshkys, which correspond to our cabs of other days, and hundreds of small but loaded vehcles , emphasize that there is life in this city."
From EDWIN F. LADD:
Poverty. "The poverty of the peasants is indicated by their dress as well as by their houses. Wooden shoes are worn next to bare feet by a majority of the country population. Almost all the children are barefoot. The clustering little villages are cheaply constructed, the roofs are thatched, the windows are small and sometimes are altogether absent."
Travel. "Travel, however, is comfortable. The sleeping cars on the Russian trains are similar to those used in continental Europe. They have many advantages over our American Pullmans, especially because they are divided into individual compartments. Considering the condition of the roads . . . the speed of the trains is tolerably good."
Moscow. "The streets of Moscow are cleaner than one expected them to be. There is not more refuse on them than is seen on the average American street. The city is extremely overcrowded, its population now numbering more than a million and a half. Frequently two or three people live in one room which serves all the purposes of a home. . . . It has been said that Moscow contains 40 times 40 churches. Everywhere the gilded domes strike one's eye. The cupolas of small churches are frequently painted blue or green and sometimes red. In the business section of the city there is hardly a block without its quota of venders, the majority of whom are elderly women with baskets full of characteristic Russian bread and various kinds of fruit. The bread ranges from coarse black to pure white."
Prices and Wages. " The prices in the better restaurants and hotels are far above those maintained in central Europe. ... A cup of good chocolate in one of the leading hotels costs 40c in American money, and a cheese sandwich in the restaurant of the State Department store costs 35c. Coffee, I am informed, sells for $2.50 a pound because it is classed as a luxury and is highly taxed by the Government."